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Kitchen knife blade being ground on a belt grinder in a Japanese workshop Kitchen knife blade being ground on a belt grinder in a Japanese workshop

Japanese Knife Steel Guide: VG10, Aogami, Shirogami & SLD

Japanese knife steel is not a ladder from “basic” to “best.” Steel changes corrosion resistance, toughness, wear resistance, sharpening feel and the kind of edge a maker can support, but the finished knife still depends heavily on heat treatment and geometry.

Grinding a Japanese kitchen knife blade

If you are choosing a knife rather than studying metallurgy, start with How to Choose Your First Japanese Knife. This guide explains the steels you will encounter across our Japanese kitchen knives.

First choose your maintenance level: stainless, semi-stainless or carbon

Stainless steel resists corrosion better and is generally easier for daily use. Carbon steel is more reactive, can develop patina and needs prompt washing and drying. Semi-stainless steel sits between those broad categories.

None of these categories is automatically higher quality. A well-made carbon knife and a well-made stainless knife simply solve different ownership preferences.

VG10: a practical stainless choice

VG10 is a stainless cutlery steel widely used in Japanese kitchen knives. In a well-executed blade it can combine useful corrosion resistance, good edge retention and enough hardness for thin kitchen geometry without demanding carbon-steel care.

For a first Japanese knife, VG10 is often attractive because it reduces the consequences of brief moisture exposure while still supporting a refined cutting edge.

Aogami / Blue Paper steel

Aogami is a family of Japanese carbon steels often called Blue Paper steel. Aogami #2 appears in several traditional-style knives. It is reactive and should be washed and dried promptly, but it can support a fine edge and is popular with makers who value carbon-steel sharpening and edge behaviour.

The important point is not that Aogami is “better” than stainless steel; it is that it offers a different balance of reactivity, wear resistance and sharpening feel.

Shirogami / White Paper steel

Shirogami is another Japanese carbon-steel family, commonly called White Paper steel. Shirogami #2 is used in traditional knives where simple carbon-steel composition, fine edge potential and straightforward sharpening are valued.

Like Aogami, it is reactive. Patina is normal; rust is not. Prompt washing and drying matter.

Aogami vs Shirogami

The useful question is not “which one wins?” Aogami grades include alloying additions that can increase wear resistance. Shirogami has a simpler composition and is often appreciated for sharpening response. In real knives, heat treatment and grind can outweigh small theoretical differences between steel families.

SLD: semi-stainless tool steel

SLD is a high-carbon, high-alloy tool steel often described as semi-stainless in kitchen-knife use. It can provide strong wear resistance while still needing more corrosion awareness than a fully stainless household steel.

When used with stainless cladding, only the exposed core at the edge requires the extra attention associated with the more reactive steel.

What does “clad” mean?

A clad blade uses one steel at the cutting core and another on the outer faces. Stainless cladding around carbon steel reduces the amount of reactive steel exposed, making everyday care easier while retaining the chosen core steel at the edge.

What is Warikomi?

Warikomi is a laminated construction in which a harder cutting steel is inserted or enclosed within softer outer material. Treat the construction name as information, not a quality score: the core steel, heat treatment, geometry and execution still determine the result.

What does Damascus mean on a kitchen knife?

Modern “Damascus” usually refers to layered cladding that creates a visible pattern. It can be beautifully made, but the pattern itself does not tell you the core steel, hardness or cutting geometry. Damascus is a construction and appearance choice, not proof that a knife cuts better.

What does HRC mean?

HRC is Rockwell C hardness. It gives useful context about how hard the blade has been heat-treated, but it is not a complete performance score. A higher number can support thin, wear-resistant edges, while toughness, grind and intended use remain equally important.

Read Knife Heat Treatment Explained for the process behind the number.

Does harder steel chip more easily?

Chipping risk depends on the whole system: hardness, toughness, edge thickness, grind, cutting board and technique. A fine, hard edge should cut rather than twist, pry or strike heavy bone or frozen food.

Which steel is easiest to care for?

For many households, stainless steel such as VG10 is the simplest. Carbon steel is perfectly practical if you are comfortable washing and drying immediately and accepting normal patina.

Which steel is easiest to sharpen?

Sharpening feel depends on alloy, hardness, heat treatment, stone and geometry. Carbon steels are often described as pleasant on stones, but there is no universal rule that one family is always easier.

See the Japanese Knife Sharpening Guide and Sharpening Stones.

How should you choose a steel?

  1. Choose care level: stainless for lower maintenance; carbon if you enjoy reactive steel and patina.
  2. Choose the knife type: Santoku, Gyuto, Petty, Nakiri or specialist according to the task.
  3. Check geometry and heat treatment: these can matter more to cutting feel than the steel name alone.
  4. Ignore prestige rankings: buy the finished knife, not the alloy name.

For the wider decision framework, return to Japanese Kitchen Knives: A Practical Guide and How Do You Know If a Japanese Knife Is Good Quality?.

Explore Japanese knife steels in more detail

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